How to Sew | how to hem

Maybe it's because I'm such a midget, but I find that hemming skirts and trousers is one of the most useful things I've ever learned to do on my sewing machine. With some tailors chalk, a straight (ish) line, and about 10 minutes you can dramatically change the fit of any bottom in your closet. Neat, eh?

I've got two easy techniques for you to try. Starting from a super easy, super quick technique you can knock out in 10 minutes, to a slightly more time-consuming, but neater, hem. Hopefully one of these techniques will suit you.

Still baffled with sewing? Have a look at the rest of the How to Sew series, including a helpful sewing dictionary and a run-down of some essential sewing tools.

As always, I'd love to hear how you get on!

How to hem

To start

1. Try on the bit of clothing you want to hem and work out the length you want your trouser or skirt. 

2. Mark where you want to hem with tailors chalk or a fabric marker.

3. Now decide on which hem you'd like to go for...

As you can see the only real difference is in how they look on the underside. The 'getting all professional' hem being much neater.

The super easy hem

Just a note to say that I've used a thread colour that will show up in photos. You might want to use a thread that matches the fabric you're using (or not - hey - it's up to you).

1. Measure 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) from the edge of your hem. Trim off all extra fabric beyond this point.
2. Using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker go over the edge of the fabric to stop the fabric from fraying.
3. Fold along the line you marked out in tailors chalk/ fabric marker (this is the extra 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) of fabric you marked out) and press with an iron so that it stays nice and flat.
4. As close to the edge of the hem as possible sew a straight line.
5. Iron again and you're done!

The 'getting all professional' hem

This is pretty much the same as the super easy hem, but it hides the raggedy edges of the fabric by hiding it under another fold of fabric.

1. Measure 1 inch (3 cm) from the edge of your hem. Trim off excess fabric from beyond this point.

2. Using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker go over the edge of the fabric to stop the fabric from fraying.
3. Fold over 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) of fabric and press with an iron so that it stays nice and flat.
4. Fold over another 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) of fabric and press again. You should now have a total of 1 inch (3 cm) folded under.
5. As close to the edge of the hem as possible sew a straight line.
6. Iron again and you're done!