The Lander pants have landed (again).
Despite building woes, winter bugs, and dreary weather (you don’t even want to know) I managed to sew up a pair of Landers in February. And man, am I ever glad I ignored the urge to binge-watch Scrubs.
Let’s be honest, you’ve probably seen these around. You know they fit like a dream on absolutely everyone and are about 100% on-trend.
But did you know, they’re actually pretty easy to sew as well? True story.
I know I’ve written about this pattern before (you can read all about the Lander shorts I made for my tester version here), but I just can’t recommend this pattern enough. I know a lot of people have been on the fence about making these so let me put those fears to rest and get into some of the juicy details.
Right, let’s talk about the fabric first. Me and a few others are green seamstress ambassadors for Les Trouvailles d’Amandine – an lush organic fabric company based in France (you can see my first post using one of their check fabrics here).
I know I may be a little biased, but I think they’ve got a great collection of fabrics – and the fact that they’re organic and made in france really just closes the deal. Honesty, the samples they sent were all so lush.
For this project I thought it would be cool to try canvas. Funnily enough, my last pair of Landers was made in a canvas. I don’t know what it is about this pattern that my mind keeps bringing me back to canvas. But it’s such a strong pattern I really think it pairs well with sturdy fabrics.
I really like the weight of canvas. It’s strong and durable, and not a million miles different to working with denim. The canvas I used is a typical weight canvas (the website says it’s 290m3) which isn’t far off most heavy denims so I guess it’s not too crazy.
Still, canvas takes a bit of getting used to. So I collected some tips on working with canvas as I went along – scroll through to the end to read my favourites.
You know the Landers by True Bias by now – wide legged, exposed button fly, high-waisted. And. Fit. Of. dreams.
I think it’s probably also worth saying that the instructions are really clear and accessible, so don’t be put off by the fact that they’re pants/trousers and have buttons. Kelli makes it all really straight-forward.
Also, Kelli has the niftiest way of finishing a waistband – folding the bottom edge of the inside waistband over the seam by a smidge and then sewing in the ditch from the front side. I’m not explaining it well, but it will change your life (no more slip stitching by hand or having to topstitch).
I promise. Life changing.
Construction and Fit
Just like my previous pair I made a straight size 6. The fit probably looks a bit different between the two because my shorts were a tester version – I understand that Kelli changed the rise before releasing the Landers to the wider public.
On this pair I really wanted to experiment with adjusting the back to fit my sway back (a.k.a. a really pronounced back arch). I tried cutting a front and back waistband so I could take a wedge out of the back. In my head this made the most sense, but curved waistbands are best for waists that sit on the hip – but for high waists a rectangle shape gives the best fit.
So I recut the waistband from the original pattern and after some investigating I used the typical approach to adjusting for sway back – thanks to Heather for a super clear tutorial on this. It still needs some tweaking, but I’m really happy with the fit.
Right now the hems are temporary – I just folded up about 3″ and sewed the hems without finishing. I want to work out the best length depending on the shoes I wear the most. They’re a bit uneven (oops!) but it hasn’t stopped me wearing them, every dang chance I get!
Tips for sewing canvas
So I wanted to finish by giving a few tips for working with canvas when sewing clothes. Canvas takes a bit of getting used to, but with a few tips it’s actually quite a dream to work with!
1. Use a 90 or 100 needle – a jeans needle works equally well.
2. Use scrAps of folded fabric to make sure the sewing foot is level when starting on an edge
3. Feel free to skip the interfacing – you don’t really need it with such sturdy fabric
4. reduce bulk where you can by skipping small detail (like belt loops)
5. Grade like a demon – you want to avoid adding bulk at the seams and darts.
I only ever share products and people I think you’ll like as much as I do (because sharing is caring). The fabric for this was kindly provided by Les Trouvailles d’Amandine (they’re nice like that). All thoughts and opinions are 100% my own